We provide high quality professional installation with every one of our liners. Detailed installation instructions are available below for those interested in installing the liner themselves. Tools needed for installations: Tape measure, chalk line, marker, skill saw, drill with Phillips head and razor knife.
Verify perimeter and depth measurements for each well
Determine which liner goes with each specific well.
Dig out the base of the well 2” to 3” so that liner is below rock level.
Mark liner for height (you can leave oversized by ½” and trim at top when completed). Use a chalk line to mark and cut with skill saw.
For the Mediterranean, Aspen Creek and Graystone Granite length will be 3” shorter than total perimeter. For Rustic River, Silver Quarry it will be 1” to 2” shorter than total perimeter. For Italian Slate and Malibu Slate it will be 1” shorter. Mark out length according to the style you have, mark with chalk line and cut with skill saw.
You are now ready to install the liner. It is best to either fold the liner in half or W the liner before inserting into the well.
Get the two edges in place 1st, then press liner into place around well. Make sure liner is level. If it is too tight, remove and cut down accordingly.
Using self taping screws start from the right and place 3 to 4 screws down the one side. Where the well starts to bend place another 2 to 3 screws. Move to the middle and place another 2 to 3 screws. Place another 2 to 3 screws where the well bends on the left side and place 3 to 4 screws on the far left side. MAKE SURE TO SECURE LINER ON THE PROUD PARTS OF THE WELL, NOT THE INDENTED PARTS.
Inspect to make sure liner is not jutting out at any point. If it is, place another screw in that location.
Use razor knife to trim top edge so that it is level with well.
Paint all screw heads with color that is provided.
Push dirt and rocks back against the liner.
Place top cap around liner and top of window well.
You have just completed your first windowell! The next one will be easier.
Tools needed: tape, caulk line, razor knife, sharpie, skill saw with standard blade, concrete drill, caulk and glue gun, hammer or small sledge.
Supplies needed: short deck screws, caulk (suggested 50 yr. Paintable caulk), glue (standard construction adhesive that is waterproof), concrete anchors (low profile heads are easier to hide). Bolt and Nut Supply carries an 1 ½” by ¼” spike, its head is flat, they work perfectly.
Dig a trench about 2” deep around all applicable areas. When you install the liner set it in this trench and then backfill against it.
Lay out your pieces and determine where each one will go. Then determine which is your best starting point and go to work.
Take your first section and measure the length and the height. With some homes there is a lip you can tuck the liner behind. If this is the case with you home, make sure to add additional height. Mark out your exact sizes on the 1st sheet and cut it with your skill saw.
Lay the piece face down and put glue on the high points and around edges. Set it in place, make sure it is level and set you 1st anchor towards the top, move across a few feet, level it and set another anchor. Continue doing this across the entire piece. Now do the same thing going downwards. You may need to add additional anchors as needed.
Corners: With every corner you will have a cut edge and a finished edge. Install cut edge piece 1st then take finished edge piece overlap the cut edge to where it looks best and anchor. You can run short screws to help hold pieces together. Trim off excess overlap and fill any gaps with glue. Move on to next piece.
Steaming: Runs longer that 12’ will require seaming. This is very easy. With the Slate style cut a straight line on both sides and install. With rock patterns take the 1st piece and with your razor knife trim off the finished edge close to the rocks. Then lay cut piece on top of joining piece line them up properly, trace a line down cut area and trim off. *Don’t worry about being perfect. Fill in any gaps with glue and move on.
Stairs: Cut piece for longest length and tallest height. Place cut section against stairs trace on the back stair layout. Use the skill saw to cut out stairs. Fill any gaps on top with glue.
Finish work: Start at the 1st section and caulk all anchors, caulk top edge (if needed). With corners and seems trim off excess glue and material, then caulk. If you want a rougher texture to your caulk, use a paintbrush to fluff it.
Painting: Go over all caulked areas and color it to match the liner. With Slate styles you have a combination of 3 colors. Mix colors together to get the best blend.
A few days after you complete your install go around make sure that it is set tight to the wall. If there is an area where it is not tight, put and anchor in it.
Your foundation is complete.
It is recommended that every 5 to 10 years you apply a U.V. sealer to product to help maintain long-term color retention. This can be purchased at most paint stores.